A thorough explanation of the different types of pearls! Introducing their characteristics, differences, and how to tell them apart from fakes
Posted by GINZAREPEARL

The types of pearls are as follows:
Representative pearls |
Highly rare pearls |
Unique pearls |
Artificial pearls |
・Akoya pearls ・Hanadama pearls ・Keshi pearls ・Mabe pearls ・Black pearl ・White South Sea pearl Freshwater pearls |
・Golden Pearl ・Abalone pearls ・Melopard ・Conch pearl |
・Baroque pearl ・Baby Pearl |
・Shell pearl ・Cotton pearl ・Plastic pearls ・Glass pearl |
Pearls are mainly classified into four categories: typical, rare, unique, and artificial . If you want to know about the types of pearls, it is important to understand the characteristics of each category.
In this article, you will learn the following:
What you'll learn in this article
- How to tell if a pearl is real or fake
- How pearls are ranked
- How to choose pearls for different occasions
If you read to the end, you will understand the characteristics of each type of pearl and how to choose one that suits the occasion, and you will find your favorite pearl.
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Seven representative types of cultured and natural pearls
There are seven main types of cultured and natural pearls:
- Akoya pearls
- Hanadama pearls
- Keshi Pearl
- Mabe pearls
- Black pearl
- White South Sea Pearl
- Freshwater pearls
The above seven types of pearls are ones you should know about. Here, we will explain in detail the most common types of cultured pearls .
By watching until the end, you will understand the representative types and gain knowledge about pearls.
Akoya pearls
Akoya pearls are one of the oldest pearls in history, having appeared first in the Kojiki and other historical records . Cultured Akoya pearls began in Japan in 1893.
The mother akoya oyster is 7cm in size, and the Akoya pearls that grow inside it are usually between 6-8mm in size. Therefore, 9mm Akoya pearls are traded at high prices due to their rarity.
item |
Contents |
How to read |
Akoya pearl |
Mother shell |
Akoya pearl |
Origin |
Ehime Prefecture, Nagasaki Prefecture, Mie Prefecture, Kumamoto Prefecture |
color |
White, cream, green, pink, silver, gold, blue |
Size |
2mm to 10mm |
Hanadama pearls
Hanadama pearls are a type of Akoya pearl that has been certified as having high quality luster, shape, color, and flaws. Since around 1990, pearls that have been certified by an appraisal agency have come to be called Hanadama pearls.
The Pearl Science Institute, one of the appraisal agencies, uses the name Aurora Hanadama.
item |
Contents |
How to read |
Fake ninja |
Mother shell |
Akoya pearl |
Origin |
Ehime Prefecture, Nagasaki Prefecture, Mie Prefecture, Kumamoto Prefecture |
color |
White pink, pink, white, light cream |
Size |
2mm to 10mm |
Keshi Pearl
Keshi pearls were created when a pearl accidentally entered the mother oyster and a layer of nacre formed. It's a pearl .
Keshi pearls vary in color and size depending on the type of mother oyster.
item |
Contents |
How to read |
Eraser |
Mother shell |
Formed regardless of type |
Origin |
Varies depending on the shellfish |
color |
White, cream, gold, silver, pink, green, blue, black, etc. |
Size |
Varies depending on the shellfish |
Mabe pearls
Mabe pearls are pearls that grow in a semicircular shape from the mother oyster. The basic shape is semicircular, but depending on the nucleus, they can also grow into drop, triangular, square, heart, and other shapes .
Mabe pearls are characterized by their iridescent and aurora-like colors. The size of the mother shell is 25cm, so the pearls grow to 10-20mm inside.
item |
Contents |
How to read |
Mabe Shinju |
Mother shell |
Mabe shellfish |
Origin |
Taiwan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Amami Oshima |
color |
Rainbow Aurora |
Size |
10mm to 20mm |
Black pearl
Black pearls were successfully mass-produced in Tahiti with technical assistance from Japan in the 1970s , which is why they are also known as Tahitian pearls .
The mother oyster, a black lipped oyster, grows to 10-20cm, and the pearls inside grow to over 10mm.
item |
Contents |
How to read |
Black Pearl |
Origin |
Tahiti, New Caledonia, Cook Islands, Ishigaki Island, Amami Oshima |
color |
Black Green, Black Red, Gray, Gold |
Size |
10mm or more |
White South Sea Pearl
Before the war, white South Sea pearls were cultivated using white South Sea oysters on the islands known as the South Sea Islands .
The mother oyster, South Sea pearl, grows to a size of 20-30cm, so it is important that South Sea pearls grow to 10mm or more. Some pearls grow to a diameter of 16-17mm.
item |
Contents |
How to read |
White Pearl |
Mother shell |
White butterfly shell |
Origin |
Indonesia, Myanmar, Australia, Philippines, Thailand, Japan |
color |
Gold, yellow, white, silver |
Size |
10mm or more |
Freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls are cultivated in Lake Kasumigaura and Lake Biwa in Japan, and since the 1990s, they have been actively cultivated in China.
Because there are many types of mother shells, they grow to a variety of sizes, from 2 to 10 mm . They also have a variety of shapes, including oval, drop, round, and button.
item |
Contents |
How to read |
Water droplets |
Mother shell |
Common oyster, black oyster, and oyster shell |
Origin |
China and Japan |
color |
White, purple, orange |
Size |
2mm to 10mm |
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Four types of rare pearls with high rarity value
There are four types of rare pearls that are highly valued :
- Golden Pearl
- Abalone pearls
- Melo Pearl
- Conch Pearl
There are several types of pearls that are highly rare. Here we will explain in detail four rare and highly valued pearls.
By reading to the end, we hope you will learn about the rare types of pearls and gain a better understanding of pearls.
Golden Pearl
Golden pearls are produced from the gold-lipped variety of white pearl oyster, whose shells have a yellowish-brown interior.
Not all golden pearls grown in the gold lip variety will become pearls; it is said that only 2-3% of them will be produced . They grow to match the size of the white pearl oyster, so many of them are over 10mm in size.
item |
Contents |
Mother shell |
White pearl oyster (gold lip variety) |
Origin |
Indonesia and the Philippines |
color |
gold |
Size |
10mm or more |
Abalone pearls
Abalone pearls are literally pearls that grow from the abalone shell. They grow in a semicircular shape, just like mabe pearls.
The abalone shell that produces abalone pearls is usually 10-12cm in size, and the pearls inside it typically grow to 5-15mm in size, although some can grow to over 20mm.
Abalone pearls are highly prized as they are only produced in a very small percentage of abalone shells, which are a luxury food ingredient .
item |
Contents |
Mother shell |
Abalone |
Origin |
Japan, Mexico, New Zealand, California, Korea |
color |
Peacock Green Blue |
Size |
5mm to 15mm |
Melo Pearl
Meropearls are pearls that grow in the waters of the South China Sea. They are produced in oyster shells called harukaze oysters, which are about 30 cm long, and can grow to 30 mm.
The basic color is orange , but yellow, reddish brown, and white specimens have also been discovered. Melo pearls are legendary for their cultivation, and some are discovered by chance in the Harukaze palm shells harvested for food , so they are rarely available on the market.
item |
Contents |
Mother shell |
Harukaze coconut shell |
Origin |
Vietnam, Philippines, Myanmar, Indonesia, Taiwan |
color |
Orange, yellow, reddish brown, white |
Size |
30mm |
Conch Pearl
Conch pearls are pearls that are produced by the Pink Conch Shell, a snail shellfish. They do not form a nacreous layer, but are made up of cross-plate structures and have a flame pattern on the surface.
Generally, the color is pink , but we have also received yellow and beige colors. Conch pearls are one of the rarest pearls, as they are only found in 1 out of 10,000.
item |
Contents |
Mother shell |
Pink Shell |
Origin |
Caribbean, Florida Keys, Cuba, West Indies |
color |
Pink, yellow, beige, red, white |
Size |
5mm to 10mm |
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Two types of pearls with unique sizes and shapes
There are two types of pearls that have unique sizes and shapes:
- Baroque Pearl
- Baby Pearl
Some types of pearls are popular because of their unique shapes. Here we will take a closer look at two types of pearls that are unique in size and shape.
If you watch until the end, you will understand pearls of unusual sizes and shapes and it will become part of your knowledge.
Baroque Pearl
Baroque pearls are pearls that are formed when a large number of pearls attach to a nucleus inside a mother oyster . The name comes from the Portuguese word "baroque" which means distorted or distorted.
Baroque pearls can form from any type of mollusk. Their unique shape has made them increasingly popular in pearl jewelry.
item |
Contents |
Mother shell |
Formed regardless of type |
Origin |
Varies depending on the shellfish |
color |
Varies depending on the shellfish |
Size |
Varies depending on the shellfish |
Baby Pearl
We do not accept baby pearls that are smaller than 5mm among Akoya pearls. They are said to be produced only in Ise Bay, Mie Prefecture, and only 4 % of Akoya pearls are baby pearls.
Baby pearls are popular because they are "casual and easy to wear" as they are different from regular pearls and do not make a bold statement when worn.
item |
Contents |
Mother shell |
Akoya pearl |
Origin |
Mie Prefecture |
color |
White, cream, green, pink, silver, gold, blue |
Size |
Less than 5mm |
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Four types of artificial pearls made by hand
There are four types of artificial pearls that are made by hand:
- Shell pearl
- Cotton Pearl
- Plastic Pearls
- Glass Pearl
There are also types of pearls that are artificially created. Here we will take a closer look at four types of artificial pearls that are created by human hands.
By the end, you will understand what artificial pearls are and the difference between real and cultured.
Shell pearl
Shell pearls are the type of artificial pearl that gives the most realistic impression. They are made by repeatedly applying artificial pearl paint and pearl foil to natural shells .
In Japanese workshops, artificial pearl paint and pearl foil are applied and dried repeatedly to carefully form layers of shell pearls.
item |
Contents |
---|---|
material |
Natural shells, artificial pearl paint, pearl leaf |
Origin |
Mallorca, Spain, China, Japan |
Cotton Pearl
Cotton pearls are made by compressing cotton, shaping it into a ball, and then painting the surface with artificial pearl paint. The cotton fibers create a bumpy texture , so they are used in jewelry that gives an antique feel.
Another plus is that the soft texture of the cotton makes it gentle on the skin. It comes in a variety of colors, including white, cream, gray, and black.
item |
Contents |
---|---|
material |
Cotton and artificial pearl paint |
Origin |
Korea and Japan |
Plastic Pearls
Plastic pearls are made by combining round molded plastic with artificial pearl paint. Because the plastic pearls themselves are lightweight, they are used in large pearl accessories.
Plastic pearls are inexpensive and easy to wear . Colors and sizes vary depending on the manufacturer.
item |
Contents |
material |
Plastic pearl/artificial pearl paint |
Origin |
China and Japan |
Glass Pearl
Glass pearls are made by applying multiple layers of artificial pearl paint to spherical glass parts. If you use polish as a final finish, it becomes a type of polished glass pearl.
Polished glass pearls have a more lustrous surface and are characterized by the appearance of seven colors, like the aurora borealis.
item |
Contents |
---|---|
material |
Glass beads, artificial pearl paint, polish |
Origin |
China and Japan |
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5 ways to tell if a pearl is real or fake
Here are five ways to tell if a pearl is real or fake:
- Attack the Black Light
- Rub the pearls together
- Checking the temperature and weight of pearls
- View the cross section of the hole
- Have a pearl professional take a look
There are several ways to identify pearls. Here we will explain in detail how pearls are classified as real or fake.
By the end of the book, you will learn how to identify different types of pearls, which you can use as a reference before making a purchasing decision.
Attack the Black Light
The proper way to see the type of pearl is to shine a black light on it. When you shine a black light on a real pearl, it will glow fluorescent green or blue.
On the other hand, the following reactions are more likely to be from pearls:
- Only the surface shines
- White light does not change
However, some genuine pearls do not glow fluorescent blue, so using a black light to distinguish them is not 100% reliable.
Rub the pearls together
Take a look at the different types of pearls and try rubbing them together.
When two real pearls are rubbed together, they will have a rough texture. This roughness is the result of the nacre that has developed over the years.
Either way, if you rub a plastic pearl or glass pearl, it will feel smooth . If it feels soft and slick compared to a real pearl, it is likely a fake .
As a word of caution, when rubbing pearls together, handle them gently and without applying force.
Checking the temperature and weight of pearls
A careful way to determine the type of pearl is to check its temperature and weight.
Pearls are a gemstone with high thermal conductivity, so they feel cool to the touch, just like a silver plate or metal frying pan.
Artificial plastic and glass pearls have a slow thermal conductivity, so you will feel the warmth a few seconds after touching them .
Also, real pearls feel heavy when you hold them , whereas plastic pearls, glass pearls, and cotton pearls are characterized by their light weight.
View the cross section of the hole
To distinguish whether a pearl is genuine or not, look at the cross section of the pearl's hole. Genuine pearls have a clean hole.
Another important point is that real pearls have a nacreous layer that has formed over a long period of time, so the hole drilling process can be done neatly.
On the other hand, fake pearls have uneven, bumpy cross sections due to the coating process that is performed after the hole is drilled. It is a good idea to use a loupe or magnifying glass to view the cross section of a pearl's hole.
Have a pearl professional take a look
The way to tell the difference between different types of pearls is to have a pearl professional look at them. Professional pearl appraisers have years of experience evaluating pearls and can quickly tell if they are real or fake.
In addition, pearl buying specialty stores have multiple pearl appraisal machines . Using a variety of machines, they can distinguish between real and fake pearls, as well as determine the type of pearl.
You can get a free appraisal by a professional pearl appraiser. If you are unsure of what type of pearl you have, be sure to make use of this service.
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What determines the rank of pearls? Evaluation points other than type
Besides the type of pearl, there are six other evaluation points that determine the rank:
- Rolling shine
- Size
- shape
- Scratches
- Color (body color/interference color)
The value of a pearl is not determined by its type alone. Here we will explain in detail the evaluation points that determine the rank of a pearl.
If you watch until the end, you will understand what to look for in a pearl to evaluate it, and your knowledge of pearl appraisal will deepen.
Rolling
The rank of a pearl is determined by its " winding ," which refers to the thickness of the nacre.
Pearls with thick nacre are more durable and last longer. They also have the beautiful luster that is characteristic of pearls.
Akoya pearls are considered "thick" if they have a luster of 0.4mm or more . South Sea pearls are highly rated if they have a luster of 0.8mm or more .
Shine
One of the evaluation points for determining the rank of pearls is " luster ." Luster refers to the shine and intensity of the light that a pearl gives off.
When light shines on a pearl, it is reflected between the multiple overlapping nacre layers. The more densely the nacre layers are layered, the stronger the light is reflected from within, resulting in a beautiful shine.
In other words, a pearl's luster and shape are evaluation points that are closely related.
Size
Pearl rank is also determined by its size , which is the diameter of the pearl.
Generally, the larger the pearl, the more valuable it is. Akoya pearls are difficult to grow large, so any pearls over 9mm in size are highly prized.
The typical size for black-spotted pearls and white-spotted pearls is 10mm or larger, and any pearls that grow to a larger size are highly valuable.
shape
The evaluation points for determining the rank of pearls include their shape . Pearls are divided into several shapes as follows:
- round
- Near Round
- Oval
- drop
- Baroque
- Poppy
Generally speaking, the more round (perfectly circular) a pearl is, the more highly it is valued.
However, accessories that make use of the pearl's natural shape, such as oval or drop, are rarely criticized.
Scratches
What determines the rank of a pearl is the number of scratches . A pearl is considered to be of high quality if it has no scratches or dents on its surface.
However, since pearls are easily scratched gemstones, small scratches or blemishes will not result in a lowering of the value. What you need to be careful of are scratches caused by the following processes:
- Coloring
- staining
- Stain removal
- Polishing
Scratches in the processing reduce the durability of the piece, and if processing scratches are found during appraisal, the value will decrease.
Color (body color/interference color)
The evaluation point for determining the rank of pearls is their color . Pearl colors are divided into actual color and interference color.
Body color refers to the natural color of the pearl . The beauty of the pearl's unique color, such as white, gray, black, or gold, is evaluated.
Interference colors are the colors that appear when light hits a pearl. For example, even white pearls can shine pink or green when light reflects off them.
Pearls with beautiful interference colors tend to receive high praise.
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Which type of pearl should I wear? How to choose for different occasions
We will explain how to choose depending on the scene in two ways:
- For everyday use
- For ceremonial occasions such as funerals and weddings
When wearing pearl accessories, there are many situations where you may wonder, "Which type of pearl should I wear?" Here, we will explain in detail how to choose pearls for two different occasions.
If you watch until the end, you will understand how to choose pearls according to the occasion and behave appropriately as an adult.
For everyday use
If you plan to wear pearls on a daily basis , we recommend the following types:
scene |
Pearl necklace length and contents |
Wear it in a variety of situations |
・Around 40cm - The length fits snugly around the collarbone, making it suitable for a variety of neck styles, including V-necks and turtlenecks. Can be used for both casual and business occasions |
Wear it at a party (daytime) |
・50-60cm ・The length reaches down to the chest, making the upper body look gorgeous. Can also be used in casual office settings |
Wear it at a party (night) |
・70-80cm - The length hits the center of the chest, making it easy to match with tunics and dresses. Can also be combined with a short necklace |
A single pearl necklace (Akoya pearl, South Sea pearl, freshwater pearl) is suitable for everyday wear. Pearl necklaces (Akoya pearl, black pearl) can also be worn for casual occasions.
For ceremonial occasions such as funerals and weddings
For formal occasions such as funerals and weddings, we recommend the following types of pearl necklaces.
Type/Event |
Funerals and wakes |
Weddings and receptions |
Entrance and Graduation Ceremonies |
Alumni Association |
Coming of Age Ceremony |
Akoya pearls (white) |
○ |
○ |
○ |
○ |
○ |
Akoya pearls and black pearls (gray) |
○ |
△ |
△ |
△ |
△ |
Black pearl (black peacock green) |
○ |
△ |
○ |
○ |
△ |
White South Sea Pearl (White Gold) |
× |
○ |
○ |
○ |
○ |
Freshwater pearls |
× |
× |
○ |
○ |
○ |
Double, triple and long necklaces |
× |
△ |
○ |
○ |
○ |
Designer Necklaces |
× |
△ |
○ |
○ |
○ |
The type of pearls appropriate for ceremonial occasions differs depending on whether it is a happy or sad occasion. Please see the following article for more information on pearl jewelry suitable for ceremonial occasions.
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Three things you should know about pearls! How to avoid regretting your purchase?
There are three things to know about pearls that won't hurt you:
- Pearls are delicate and require care
- Buying second-hand goods is normal
- If you use it, sell it as soon as possible.
If you have pearl jewelry, there are a few things you need to be aware of. Here we will explain in detail the precautions you should take when handling pearls.
If you read to the end, you will understand what you should be careful of when it comes to pearls, so that you can keep them without any regrets after purchasing them.
Pearls are delicate and require care
The first thing to keep in mind about pearls is that they are delicate gemstones that require careful care. Pearls are organic matter, and external stimuli can cause the nacre on their surface to peel off or become scratched.
Therefore, after wearing, wipe off sweat, sebum, cosmetics, etc. with a soft cloth. Also , avoid storing in environments exposed to ultraviolet rays, insect repellents, or high temperatures and humidity.
Pearls can be scratched if rubbed against other gemstones or precious metals, so store them in separate storage boxes.
Buying second-hand goods is normal
The second thing to be careful about with pearls is that buying second hand is simply a bad idea - pearls will deteriorate in quality over time and therefore in value proportionately.
Even if the jewelry is from a famous brand such as Mikimoto or Tasaki and comes with an appraisal certificate, there is a risk that the pearls may have been switched, which can be dangerous.
Also, if the seller of second-hand goods does not have enough knowledge, there are cases where deteriorated pearls are sold at high prices based only on the appraisal results . Since buying second-hand goods is risky, it is best to avoid them.
If you use it, sell it as soon as possible.
The third thing to remember about pearls is to buy more as soon as you realize you have some to waste.
Pearls are a gemstone that is prone to deterioration and require careful storage .
Therefore, if you feel that you will never have a chance to use it after purchasing it, consider selling it immediately. Also, if you choose a specialty store that specializes in pearl purchases , you can expect a high appraisal with a proper appraisal.
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4 Frequently Asked Questions About Pearl Types
Below are four frequently asked questions about pearl types.
- What are the rarest pearl colors?
- What types of freshwater pearls are there?
- What is the highest grade of pearl?
- What is the difference between Akoya pearls and genuine pearls?
Many people have questions about the different types of pearls. Here are some of the most common questions people ask and the answers.
By the end, all your questions about the different types of pearls will be answered and you will have acquired accurate knowledge about pearls.
What are the rarest pearl colors?
The rare color of pearls is white, which has a pure white shine . In the case of golden pearls, South Sea pearls, those with a deep golden color are highly valued.
Among black pearls, those with a variety of colors like a peacock's feathers, known as peacock green , are said to be rare and highly unusual.
What types of freshwater pearls are there?
The types of freshwater pearls are as follows:
shape |
Contents |
Round/Semi-round |
Close to a perfect circle |
Baroque |
Formless |
button |
Shaped like a squashed sphere |
egg |
Egg Shape |
Poppy |
Poppy petal shaped |
feather |
Branch-like shape |
Freshwater pearls are produced in a variety of shapes, as shown above, depending on the mother oyster and the environment in which they grow.
What is the highest grade of pearl?
The highest rank of Akoya pearls is "Tenjo" (as stated by the Pearl Science Institute). At the Pearl Research Institute, the highest rank of uncolored pearls is called "Snow White Pearls" and the highest rank of colored pearls is called "FIVE STAR".
Tennyo, Yukihaku and FIVE STAR are ranked even higher than Hanadama pearls.
What is the difference between Akoya pearls and genuine pearls?
There is no difference between Akoya pearls and genuine pearls . Akoya pearls are the name for the type of pearl, while genuine pearls refer to all real pearls.
For this reason, Akoya pearls are sometimes called genuine pearls.
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All: Learn about the different types of pearls and find the one that's right for you
Let's review the different types of pearls below.
Representative pearls |
Highly rare pearls |
Unique pearls |
Artificial pearls |
・Akoya pearls ・Hanadama pearls ・Keshi pearls ・Mabe pearls ・Black pearl ・White South Sea pearl Freshwater pearls |
・Golden Pearl ・Abalone pearls ・Melopard ・Conch pearl |
・Baroque pearl ・Baby Pearl |
・Shell pearl ・Cotton pearl ・Plastic pearls ・Glass pearl |
Pearls vary in origin, color, and size depending on the type, so we recommend that you look at the characteristics of the various types and find your favorite one.
Before purchasing pearls, be sure to double-check how to tell if they are real or fake and what to look out for when purchasing pearls.
Also, check out the types of pearls that are suitable for everyday use and for special occasions, and purchase a piece that will add style to your outfit.